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NEPAL - HIMALAYA KINGDOM bHUTAN - LAND OF THUNDER DRAGON INDIA  CHINA - TIBET - LASHA
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TIBET EXPEDITION  

 
   
 
 
INTRODUCTION :

Mt. Changtse (7,550m) Expedition :         Entry / Exit Via Zhangmu

The snow peak of mount Changtse is located adjacently north of the mount Everest and hence the name Changtse was given by the Tibetans. The word Chagtse stands for the meaning “North peak”.
Similarly , the two other well known peaks in the surrounding of the mount  Everest are mount “Lhotse” (the 4th  highest ) and “Nuptse” are the Tibetan names meaning the “South peak” & the “West peak”, because these two snoe peaks are adjacently situated to the south and the west to the mount Everest.

Unofficially, the mount  Changtse was first ascended in October 1982 by a Dutch climber “Johan Takes”
who was in the Dutch Everest Expedition team. He climbed the mountain apparently without a permit against the will of the other expedition members, just an 11 days before ,it would have been climbed officially by the German team.

On 14th October 1982AD the five members of a German expedition team including Udo Zehetleitner, Paul Braun, Rudolf Frick, Ludwig Hösle and Martin Engler scaled the summit of this snow peak. This ascent was made via the four kilometer long north –east ridge from the junction of the east Rongbuk glacier and Changtse glacier.
On 14th May 1983AD,the next ascent and also the first solo expedition to its summit was made by a Chilean climber “Gino Casassa” via the same route as used by the Germans before.

On the 10th & 11th May 1986, the summit of mount Changtse was climbed again by a large Chinese-Japanese expedition team. This expedition of 8  Japanese and 16 Chinese  used the north–east ridge from the Changtse glacier. This expedition team also included the first ascent by a woman named Mrs. Gunsung.

 

Similarly, on 28th August 1986 the American climber “Ed Webster” made the first solo ascent via the south–east face from the foot of the North Col . Most of this climb was done at night, taking advantage of more stable snow and icy conditions.
On 29th September 1987, the Australian climber “Rob Turner” and “Glen Nash” reached the summit via the north face ice wall (the route by Japanese in 1986 ) despite high winds.
Nowadays the mountain receives a very little attention and only one or two Chinese additional expeditions have been listed till to the present date.

 

JOURNEY DETAIL :

Your  expedition begins when you land at the International airport in Kathmandu, Nepal. You will be welcomed & received by us. Be transferred to your pre-booked hotel.

The following two more days will be used to forward & complete the remaining process of your Tibet visa and to access the other necessary documents for the expedition program from the Chinese Embassy in Kathmandu.

Also, there will be an introductory program for the climbers with all the members of our Nepalese crew who will be accompanying and supporting you during the entire expedition.

The next day, we will drive towards the Nepal-Tibet border via the Ar-niko high way and will enter into the Chinese territory by crossing the Friendship Bridge at the border. The Chinese liaison officer and the Chinese transportations will be waiting for us across the bridge.

All our expedition gears are taken and carried by the truck and all climbers will be accommodated in the 4WD Land cruiser to the Chinese town of Zhangmu (2300 meters ) which is first entrance city to Tibet. The rest of the program for the expedition would be as in the given itinerary below.

FIXED  DEPARTURE  DATE
Year Climbing Season in 2018 Arrival in
Kathmandu
Journey towards Mountain
2018  Spring Expedition 04 April 2018 07 April 2018
Autumn Expedition 01 September 2018 04 September 2018
 

ITINERARY________________

Day 01 : Arrive in Kathmandu. Be welcomed by our representative & get transferred to your hotel.
               O/n at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 02 : Preparation for the expedition. Overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 03 :
Preparation for the expedition. Overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 04 : Drive to Zhangmu in Tibet. Overnight at hotel in Zhangmu.

Day 05 : Drive to Naylam. Overnight at hotel in Nyalum.

Day 06 : A day’s rest & acclimatization in Nyalum. Overnight at hotel in Nyalum.
Day 07 : Drive to Tingri. Overnight at hotel in Tingri. 
Day 08 : A day’s rest & acclimatization in Tingri. Overnight at hotel in Tingri.   
Day 09 : Drive to the Base Camp (5200m). Overnight at a tent.
Day 10 : A day of acclimatization at the Base Camp. Overnight at a tent.
Day 11 : Trekking to the Middle Camp. Overnight at a tent.
Day 12 : Trekking to the Advanced Base Camp (ABC). Overnight at a tent.
Day 13 - Day 29 : Climbing period of Mt Changtse (7,550 m).                      
Day 30 :
Trek down to the Base Camp. Overnight at a tent.
Day 31 : Drive to  Zhangmu. Overnight at hotel in Zhangmu.   
Day 32 : Drive to Kathmandu. Overnight at hotel.   
Day 33 : A full day’s rest in Kathmandu Overnight at hotel.   
Day 34 : Be transferred to the International airport in Kathmandu for boarding the flight to your
               onward destination. Farewell to Nepal.
                                        ---------  End of the Expedition ---------

 
 
EXPEDITION COST
  [Till the Advance Base Camp]
[On Group Joining Basis ]
01 Person = US$ 7,900.00 per person             [ Require minimum of 6 persons ]
OPTIONAL COST : ( If Required by the Climber).

A Climbing Sherpa Guide = USD 5,500.00 per guide.

NOTE : The Climbing Sherpa will assit the climber to climb from the Base Camp till the summit of the mountain.

 
 
The Cost Includes ::
  • All transfers between airport & hotel in a private coach as the program in the itinerary.
  • 05 nights of accommodation (at a Toursit Standard Hotel ) in Kathmandu with the bed & breakfast only.
  • Tibet travel permit & China visa for the expedition crew.
  • The peak climbing permit of the mount Changtse (7,550m) from Tibet side.
  • Liaison officer &  an Interpreter.
  • Nepalese crew's insurance, salary, allowances & their expedition gears.
  • Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide and the Dining tent, Table, Chairs, Toilet tent, Mess tent & Kitchen tent. etc.
  • Emergency Oxygen, Mask & regulator in the Advance Base Camp. (On the payment basis, US$ 300.00 per set)
  • Satellite phone (Pay call).
  • Gamow bag (Life saving device incase of altitude sickness).
  • In the Base Camp & the Advance Base Camp 1 tent per climber (North Face brand) will be provided.
  • All mountaineering gears till the Advance BC only for both the expedition members & the Nepalese supporting crew.
    [ Note : In the HIGH ALTITUDE CAMPS above the ABC ( Advanced Base Camp ), the climbers have to manage their  own tent, food items & other life sustaining tools & equipments that lasts till the period of summit and return back to ABC ,for themselves and for the  Sherpa guide ( if the climbers hire the Sherpa guide).]
  • 40 KG of load per climber will be carried by the Yak from the Base Camp to the Advance Base Camp.
  • 30 KG of load per climber will be carried by the Yak on the way back from ABC to the Base Camp.
  • An expedition T-shirts with the expedition label for each climbing members as a souvenir.
  • 01 welcome dinner & 01 farewell dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Solar panel at  Advance Base Camp for light and for charging the batteries.
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  • All transfers between Kathmandu to Zhangmu and to the Base Camp and vice versa till Kathmandu in the private minibus / jeep for the expedition members & a truck for carrying all the climbing gears & the equipment.
  • All accommodations with full board meals at the hotels in the Tibetan territory in different towns and during the entire expedition period in the Advance Base Camp as per the time frame in the itinerary and during the journey on the way back to Kathmandu.
     
 
The Cost Excludes ::
  • In Kathmandu Part  ::
  • All international air tickets to and from Kathmandu and all airport taxes (wherever it is applicable).
  •  All Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Nepal entry visa and the re-entry visa to Nepal from the Tibet side. ( wherever it is applicable to the climber during the expedition).
  • Air cargo custom clearance duty fee USD 150.00 per person for the expedition goods sent by the climbers to the Kathmandu prior to their arrival in Kathmandu.
  • All expenses of the personal nature , like ; laundry, postage, telephone calls ,bar bills & beverage, camera & photography expenses.
  • The extra nights stay in Kathmandu and other tour activities by the climber, other than the fixed number of nights’ stay as mentioned in the expedition itinerary package above.
  • All other costs of the items that are not mentioned in the cost inclusion section above.

  • During The Expedition ::
  • All personal climbing gears & the equipments for the climber(s).
  • A climbing Sherpa guide from the Base Camp to the summit & return till the Base Camp.
  • The tents, foods, gas & stove for the High Altitude Camps (above the Base Camp), that would last till the summit and return back to the Base Camp. [ for both the climber and for the climbing Sherpa guide].
  • The Personal Climbing equipment including the oxygen cylinders ( USD 400.00 per cylinder ) & the mask & regulator. (USD 600.00 per set ).
  • The travel insurance & medical insurance that would cover the rescue & evacuation by helicopter for the climber.
  • The permit fee for the personal satellite phone with e-mail & internet facilities.
  • The permit fee for the Walkie-Talkie & Radio set during the expedition.
  • The Voluntary tips for the expedition staffs from the side of the climber.
  • The expedition filming  permit USD 30,000.00 per camera. ( a small portable camera is free.)
  • The Ice fall clearance  fees  (on group cost basis) , during the expedition (wherever it is applicable).
  • Garbage Deposit USD 500.00 per one team ( on group cost basis). [ This fee  is refundable after the completion of the expedition and only after you would be successful to achieve “the garbage management certificate” from the base camp officials after the expedition.]
  • Extra Yak, if you need for your extra luggage to be carried. Cost per Yak is USD 200.00 that will carry up to 40kg load.
  • Conservation fee in Tibet = USD 20.00 per person.
  • Rescue Jeep, Oxygen Cylinder, Mask & Regulator, Satellite Phone, Duty Jeep, filming permit etc. All these services are available on the extra payment basis.
  • ( See below :- the Extra Cost for the Additional Services).
       
Extra Cost for Additional Services ::

Russian Oxygen Cylinder (4 liters) : US$ 400.00  per cylinder.

Mask & Regulator : US$  600.00 per set.

Satellite Phone :     US$ 700.00 per set ( Personal use from climber).

Duty Jeep :             US$ 4000.00 ( for the whole time of the expedition).

Rescue Jeep:          US$ 700.00 per Jeep.

Film Permit:           US$  30,000.00 per camera set ( Small Portable movie camera is free).
 

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